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AQUARIUS:
Start with an aquarium as large as you can afford.
The simple principle, which should be 1-2 cm smaller body of fish for every gallon filtered aquarium, is a starting point, but not very accurate. This is true even for a standard rectangular aquarium. Goldfish are dirty and fatter, so I would triple the goldfish with them, in fact, the long-term health, a goldfish is 8-10 per gallon at best cases.
Obviously, most fish need moreTank width and length. I would be the amount of fish in proportion to the decrease gallons in a large aquarium or aquarium hexagon.
I remember, many fish can be bought much larger than the size of the original purchase (eg, goldfish), so remember to grow.
What is more important to determine how many fish in your aquarium, you should these factors are:
* The amount of surface area than a liter of water in the aquarium holds.
* Type of fish, as fish that naturally produce more waste (partly
do for the type of food they eat) such as goldfish where one fish for 8 +
Gallon is better.
* Filtration, a real aquarium (bio filter filtration good, with good mechanical filtration and good circulation), multiple filters
important.
* Maintenance plan which includes the periodic changes in water use efficiency
* A new aquarist must start with a much less crowded> Aquarium.
FILTER:
I always recommend two filters minimum per aquarium for redundancy and to improve the biological (denitrifying) filtration. Hang a small aquarium, a combination of one (running back) and a filter sponge. Or a sponge filter and an internal power filter. We want to ensure and maintain your sponge or cartridge aquarium water used to wash the bacteria for bio-filtration.
Other filters must be observed Canister, Wet / dry bed of gravel, and fluid.
There are four types of filtration:
Biological removal of nitrogenous wastes (ammonia, TEC), which is the most important.
Mechanical removal of larger debris (organic and inorganic), before they can go through the nitrogen cycle (organic)
Chemistry, the removal of chemical contamination of carbon, zeolite, or many other products. This is less important in a healthy office> Aquarium.
Germicidal, UVC, or the use of ozone to kill pathogens and control of the redox potential.
HEATING:
Most tropical fish do well at a temperature of 76-80 degrees Fahrenheit. (Discus prefer warmer).
Goldfish do not need a heater.
I recommend 25 watts for each temperature of 10 degrees is necessary to increase the temperature of the aquarium. EX: If your house is 68 degrees, and you have a 40 liter aquarium, reach a temperatureof 78 degrees, you need a 100 watt heater.
CYCLING:
Your aquarium is not on top of biological filtration for 6 weeks (or more). To work, biological filtration, there are many cycling products available, such as "Cycle" by Hagen. My success with these products is mixed at best, it is very difficult for the aerobic bacteria that are stored live for cycling your aquarium in a sealed container at room temperature is necessary, as soon die withoutOxygen.
I prefer to add gravel or use a sponge filter / cartridge from another aquarium. You can also create your own aquarium, and then run the filter for a couple of weeks (if a bit 'boring, and this is a tedious process, aerobic bacteria develop ).
Cycling is what is called the nitrogen cycle. Waste (nitrogen) is removed from the first fish (NH3 ammonia, toxic) into nitrite (NO2, less toxic) to nitrates (NO3, least toxic, but highlyAmounts) can stunt fish growth and lower resistance to disease.
At pH 6.5, NH3 (ammonia) converts to change NH4 (ammonia), which in reality are not toxic to most fish (many of ammonia removing chemicals to a similar ions, as they are to remove the 'ammonia). If you consume the plants in your aquarium, the ammonia directly (), in particular, Chickweed, so that the NO2 (nitrite), part of the nitrogen cycle is equal to zero. Here, the risk increases if the pH is above 6.5, ammonia canNH3 change much more toxic and aerobic bacteria, consumption of nitrite are required scarce.
LIVE TREES:
Live plants are in my view desirable, but many artificial plants can be realistic, if they are properly disposed of or used in combination with live plants. For a beginner, live plants are difficult, but not by much.
The benefits of live plants, are high removal of nitrate and to maintain a natural balance to the aquarium, adding and removing CO2Oxygen (only) during daylight hours. Chickweed is an ideal plant for the removal of nitrates and is relatively easy to grow. Banani (if any) are also a very simple system. Be careful with many fish, the bottom "" Your plants are mowed, for example, silver dollars, most African cichlids, and even goldfish.
Here is a list of "easy" plants for beginners:
Spade Compacta, Chickweed, Wendt red, spiral Novalis subulata Nani, Hygro, Java fern regular spikes o.
For healthy plants I suggest, a# 00 sand mixed with laterite substrate about 3-5 cm cm deep, with a layer of gravel about 2 depth # 3. This combination is suitable for plant roots, simple aspiration of the SOLO level (where are the roots of plants), and for better bio-filtration. You can bet laterite with a sandy bottom at the top (although usually not so good), a source of iron, thus preparing the ground; Gather sandy soil, add water with a 10 / 1 bleach solution, mix for some minutes, then rinse (with a de-chlorinator) For the first rinse until the water is relatively clear. The sand that remains is what you mix with the roots of plants.
NUTRITION:
I recommend feeding high quality fish and plant foods. The ingredients are: flour, fish meal spirulina, FD Brine Shrimp, shrimp meal, vitamin C and E,-shell lobster.
Fish can not digest proteins from the meat well, and most fish get their energy from fat. Some quality foods include: Omega, Spirulina 20, Ocean Nutrition, Hikari,Sanyu.
Feed your fish two or three times a day, which consume in three minutes.
Feeding foods high in protein, low quality may increase the levels of nitrates, as an essential component of protein nitrogen and is unusable if the fish, which is excreted into the nitrogen cycle.
CLEANING:
You should try to change a road map for the 20% (or more) of your water per week. I recommend a vacuum of gravel, it is not necessary to remove the fish while using a gravelEmpty. Make sure the water is added back to the same temperature and pH, and has no chlorine or chloramine.
CHEMISTRY:
Keep your ammonia 0, nitrite at 0, your nitrates below 20-30, and KH above 80 ppm. Ph depends very much on the fish you are keeping. Discus prefer to have a pH below 7.0, while Mbuna African cichlids prefer above 8.0.
A very general pH of 7.2 -7.5 work for fish many communities.
Crushed Coral and / or shells Wonder (Wonder Shells aremuch faster to dissolve the desired KH) can be used to maintain a high pH, if you want an aquarium with a higher pH, KH, GH, particularly in areas where tap water or well water is very acid.
For a lower pH in the aquarium, which is used tap water is very high (usually 7.8 or later), I have used mixtures of RO (reverse osmosis) water and tap water . The ratio varies with the tap water pH, KH, GH & and conditions of the water that I want to achieve. By Discus may take up to 75% RO. Then getI use peat in my filters these conditions. Note that GH does not affect pH, and magnesium (an important component of GH) is important for the metabolism of fish. Also note that calcium is the main cause of KH (the pH value, no doubt), it is also important for the metabolism of fish and fish health and healing. The above method of using RO (or DI) water in a mixture with tap water and peat, I still in a position, a KH above 80 ppm (for proper calcium absorption), to sometimes with additions such reservesWonder shells or calcium polygluconate.
CONCLUSION:
This is only general information, aquarium, for more information to follow with links to additional resources and images, please this link: FUNDAMENTAL PRINCIPLES Aquarium; information for the correct setting
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